The first ascent to Mt.Elbrus was accomplished July, 22, 1829 by kabardian Kilar Hashirov, accompanied Russian military expedition (the leader—general G.A. Emanuelem).
Academicians of the Russian Academy of sciences was in this expedition—A.J. Kupfer, Lents physicist, Меier botany, Menetrie zoologist, and also the official of mountain case Vansovich, Joseph Bernardatstsi—аrchitect Caucasian Mineralnie Vody, Besse—the Hungarian traveler and the scientist.
The basic preparation and equipment of expedition were carried out in "Hot Waters"—so Pyatigorsk referred to till 1830. At the end of June expedition has left in Kamennomostskaya fortress and the ambassador was directed through Malka river to northern bottom of Elbrus. At height about 9,800 feet, in natural boundary Dzhily-Su, near to a snow line and mineral sources, the Base Camp of expedition was established and equipped.
From here in fine weather, in night for July, 22 the ascent also was begun. Kupfer, Menetrie, Меier and Bernardatstsi with group of cossacks, could rise only up to height 14,000 feet, whence have turned back—the height and absence of acclimatization has had an effect. An ascent continued Lents, the cossack P. Lysenkov from Gorjachevodskoj village and two conductors—kabardian Kilar Hashirov and balkarian Аchiya Sottaev. After climb up to the saddle (17,390 feet), all person have turned back and have begun descent in Base Camp. Only Kilar Hashirov continued ascent one. Having overcome an abrupt snow slope, he has left on rather simple rocky ridge, and climb on the East Top of Elbrus.
General Emanuel', observing for an ascent from Base Camp in a telescope, having seen on top of appeared person, has ordered to beat in drums and to give repeated gun salute in honor of the winner.
So Elbrus for the first time was obedient. When Hashirov has gone down in Base Camp, Emanuel' congratulated on victory to him and presented with his one hundred rubles and expensive material for dress. Subsequently in Pyatigorsk park "flower bed" in honor of the First Ascent to Elbrus two memorable pig-iron plates with inscriptions in the Russian and Arabian languages, immortalized this significant event were established.
DATES for SUMMER ELBRUS 2020 joint group:
25/07 - 03/08, 10 days, N Side 1295 eur (min 4 pax)
28/08 - 06/09, 10 days, N Side 1235 eur (min 5 pax)
Program of 10-day tour
Day 1 Arrival to Mineralnye Vody (Mineral Waters) airport. 0,5-hour, 25 km bus transfer to Pyatigorsk city. Accomodation in hotel.
Day 2 3-4 hours, 100 km bus transfer to the Emmanuel Glade. Accommodation in the Base Camp (2570 m).
Day 3 Acclimatization ascent up to Camp 1 (3730 m) on the end moraine of the Mikelchiran Glacier. Carry a part of personal equipment for Camp 1. Return down to BC, 7-8 hrs, total.
Day 4 Ascent up to Camp 1 (3730 m). Accommodation in the Refuge.
Day 5 Acclimatization ascent up to the Lentz Rocks (4650 m or higher). Return down to Camp 1, 5-6 h, total.
Day 6 Summit day. Ascent of Elbrus West (5642 m) or Elbrus East (5621m). Leaving for the ascent at 2-3 a.m., 14-16 hours total. Night in Camp 1.
Day 7 Reserve day.
Day 8 Descent down to BC, 3-4 hrs.
Day 9 Return to Pyatigorsk. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 10 Bus transfer to the Mineralnye Vody airport, flight home.
The price includes:
- accommodation in hotel in Pyatigorsk (2 nights with breakfast);
- accommodation in BC & Camp 1;
- full board BC - BC;
- all transfers in the Elbrus region according to the program;
- CET Neva mountain guide;
- cook in the Base Camp and in Camp 1;
- necessary permits and registration;
- administrative fees in Kabardino-Balkaria.
The price does not include:
- internal regular flights to Min. Vody airport and back;
- luggage air transportation;
- unexpected premature evacuation;
- cost of Russian visa;
- rent of mountaineering equipment;
- drinks and personal expenses;
- extra pay due to change of the appointed departure time.