Dykh-Tau, 2009


Dykh-Tau is the second highest of the Caucasus Mountains, after Mount Elbrus!

This is one of the great Caucasian Peaks, facing the magnificent Bezingi Wall across the Bezingi Glacier. The first ascent in August 1888 by J.G. Cockin, W. Holder and H. Woolley with U. Almer, C. Roth was a major achievement at the time. Grade: 4b (Russian Grading).

Mountains are always the best and latest news. Whenever you go there you meet something new and unexpected. Khulam-Bezengy canyon is far beyond our routine ways, far off our everyday life. And here in the Main Caucasian range with its magnificent peaks-
Dykh-Tau and Koshtan-tau you can sense all...




Our team: Colin LIVELY and Dan TEBAY, Dima Teplov and Anatoly Moshnikov—CETNEVA.

Main Peak: North Ridge from the West Dykh-Tau is a massive, technically challenging mountain, topped by twin towers. The lower eastern peak (16,900 ft.) is separated from the main peak by a steep, narrow saddle. The mountain is steep on all sides, and is predominantly a snow and ice mountain, but windswept rock walls and ridges add variety to the superb climbing challenges here.

What has to be interesting for our group is the fact that the region had been "discovered" by British climbers-explorers: at 1998 year was 110th anniversary of first ascents of Skhara, Dzhangui and Dykh-tau by famous A. Mummery and D. Cockin in 1888 and Alpine Base Camp "Bezengui" celebrates this date. In 1959 Sir John Hunt visited these mountains and described them in his "Red snows".

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From Camp Bezengi, climb the path on the left lateral moraine of the Bezengi Glacier to the Misses-Kosh hut (1-2 hours). Continue along the path on the left lateral moraine of the Bezengi Glacier and after 30 min turn left by a big stone with inscription on a stone "ВЦСПС" and cross vegetated slopes and scree couloir (stonefall). Ascend the right side of the fairly broad scree couloir. A rognon in the upper part of the couloir is turned on the left and one continues over scree into the right hand depression of the West Ridge of Misses-Tau.

From the depression, cross over to the south side of the ridge and continue as far as the ice fall of a hanging glacier, which descends from Noth Ridge of Dykh-Tau. This is the site of the Russian Bivouac, 5-6 hours from Camp Bezengi.

Camp I - Russian Bivouac, 3900 m

To Camp I - Russian Bivouac, altitude 3900 m.

North Ridge to the Camp II, 4580 m

Camp 2. From the Russian Bivouac, climb 15-20 m up the West Ridge of Misses-Tau, then 120-150 m along a horizontal ledge on the right side of the ridge and traverse to a glacier plateau.

The ascent to the notch between Dych-Tau and Misses-Tau can be done the next way:
- CROSS THE GLACIER TO THE RIGHT, TURNIN THE West Pillar of the South Gendarme of Misses-Tau and a rock island on the right. Ascend a gentle snow and ice slope, then move to left to an ice gully with a stream (stone fall). Climb the ice ice falls above on the right) an continue up an inclined snow slope to the notch on the North Ridge of Dych-Tau. 5-7 hours from the Russian Bivouac.

Between Dych-Tau and Misses-Tau.

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Now ascend the ridge, turning the first three rock steps by crossing the snow slopes on the right.

Climb straight up the first gendarme over a snow rise and easy rocks. Beyond it, ascend the moderately difficult, snow-covered rocks of the ridge to the bivouac at the gendarme.

Possible bivouac site, 5-7 hours from the notch.

From the bivouac, climb 200 m up a snow slope (belay) into a notch on the North Ridge at the junction with the North-East Pillar.

Continue for 150 m up the left side of the snow and ice ridge (cornices, fractures), then climb on to the ridge.

Continue over the long snow ridge/arête to below a 10 m gendarme, with is climbed up the center or by its right hand wall (piton belay). Continue along the snow ridge (cornices) with easy, broken, snow-covered sections of rock and up a 3 m crack to the summit. 8-9 hours from the bivouac by the gendarme, 13-16 hours from the notch below Misses-Tau.


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