Expedition on Tian-Shan: ascents of Mt. Khan-Tengri (7010 m) and Victory Peak (7439 m), 2020 – from 1995 EUR€

The region of Central Tian-Shan is situated in a node formed by China, Kazakhstan and Kirguizia frontiers. Kirguizian-Chineese boundary follows Meridional Range and stretching in latitudinal direction Kok-Shaal-Tau Range, but also latitudinal Sary-Djas Range sets up the border between Kirguizia on the south and Kazakhstan on the north. It is between Sary-Djas and Kok-Shaal that two branches of the Inylchek glacier lie, north and south, separated by short but high Tengri-Tag Range. West of Tengri-Tag they join to born Inylchek mainstream. It is in this mountain and political node that two most northern seven-thousanders of the Earth are situated: Khan-Tengri dominates the Tengri-Tag Range and Pobeda stands 20 km farther south, in the Kok-Shaal-Tau.

Marble pyramid of Khan-Tengri impressively towers by about 800m over surrounding peaks of the Tengri-Tag where it stands. Seen on sunset from the north, from Kazakh prairies, it looks like a drop of blood against dark blue background of the night sky. This is why it has another local name, Kan-Tau, "Bloody Mountain". Black north Khan-Tengri face falls abruptly down to the N.Inylchek forming the North Wall, the south side is dominated by famous Marble Rib, in fact, built of marble colored in orange.

Broad massif of Pobeda (Victory Peak in English) rises over the Kok-Shaal-Tau up to almost 7.5 km high. In 1943 trigonometric computations had been completed which defined its altitude to be equal to 7439 m. Those times were the World War II epoch, strong battles were going on, and whole the soviet people lived with a hope of the victory in the war. This is why the highest point of the Tian-Shan has received its name.

Of course, ascents of Khan-Tengri and of Victory Peak are highly attractive for every genuine climber or adventure finder but the climber has to have adequate experience in high mountains and to be trained and equipped enough to resist against severe nature conditions.

Expeditions to the Central Tian-Shan are area of many year CET Neva activity. Accompanied by our guide(s), participants arrive to Bishkek (capital of Kirguizia) from Moscow or from another cities by plane. Then their way goes to Karakol point by bus and from there to the Inylchek glacier Base Camp.

Khan Tengri expedition 2020 – schedule and cost

Day 1   Arrival to the Manas International Airport in Bishkek, capital of Kirghizia. Transfer and overnight in a hotel.
Day 2   Transfer (460 km, about 8 hours) from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (BC, 2100 m). Accommodation in two person tents. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Day 3   To Base Camp on the South Inylchek glacier (4100 m) by helicopter (45 min.) Night in tents.
Day 4   Primary acclimatization in BC.
Day 5   To Khan Tengri Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 6   To Camp 2 (4800-5200 m).
Day 7   Return to BC.
Day 8   Rest day.
Day 9   To Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 10   To Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 11   Return to BC.
Day 12   Rest day.
Day 13   To Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 14   To Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 15   Khan-Tengri summit day: to the top and back to Camp 3.
Day 16   Descent down to BC.
Days 17, 18   Rest/reserve days.
Day 19   Flight back to Karkara Base Camp by helicopter. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 20   Full day in Bishkek. Overnight in a hotel.
Day 21   Flight home.

The best period for the expedition is July - August.

Cost of the non-guided expedition is
from 1995 EUR€ per person

Victory Peak expedition 2020 – schedule and cost

Day 1   Arrival to the Manas International Airport in Bishkek, capital of Kirghizia. Transfer and overnight in a hotel.
Day 2   Transfer (460 km, about 8 hrs) from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (BC, 2100 m). Accommodation in two person tents. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Day 3   To Base Camp on the South Inylchek glacier (4100 m) by helicopter (45min.) Night in tents.
Day 4   Primary acclimatization in BC.
Day 5   Primary acclimatization in BC.
Day 6   To Victory Peak Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 7   To Camp 2 (5100 m).
Day 8   To Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 9   Descent down to BC.
Day 10   Rest day.
Day 11   Rest day.
Day 12   To Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 13   To Camp 2 (5100 m).
Day 14   To Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 15   To Camp 4 (6400 m).
Day 16   Descent down to BC.
Day 17, 18, 19   Rest days.
Day 20   To Camp 1 (4200 m).
Day 21   To Camp 3 (5800 m).
Day 22   To Camp 4 (6400 m).
Day 23   To Camp 5 (6918 m).
Day 24   Victory Peak summit day: go up to the top and back down to Camp 5.
Day 25   Descent to Camp 1.
Day 26   Return to BC.
Day 27   Flight back to Karkara Base Camp by helicopter. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 28   Full day in Bishkek. Overnight in a hotel.
Day 29   Flight home.

The best period for the expedition is July - August.

Cost of the non-guided expedition is
from 1995 EUR€ per person
Helicopter flight schedule for 2020 (preliminary):
July: 5, 9, 12, 14, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 26, 28, 29, 30
August: 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 13, 17, 18, 20, 22, 26, 27

The cost includes:

  • all necessary administrative fees and taxes in Kirghizia (including registration with local Rescue Party, frontier zone and climbing permits, ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC, official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan);
  • meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek;
  • all surface transfers necessary for normal realization of the tour;
  • helicopter flight to BC and back with unlimited personal load included;
  • accommodation in Bishkek (with breakfast) according the program;
  • accommodation in Karkara BC (maximum 4 nights) and BC "South Inylchek" (full board);
  • shower and sauna in BC "South Inylchek";
  • consultancy service of local guides in BC;
  • consultancy of doctor and first medical aid;
  • long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents (for the groups more than 3 pax).

The cost does not include:

  • airport taxes;
  • unexpected premature evacuation;
  • cost of visa (if needed);
  • insurance;
  • rent of mountaineering equipment;
  • porters;
  • drinks and personal expenses.

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