Peak Ismail Somoni (ex-Communism, 7495 m), which sometimes is erroneously referred to Peak Garmo, towers over the joint of two mountain ranges, Peter the First Ridge (latitudinal) and Academy of Sciences Ridge (meridional), on the North-West Pamir. This was the former USSR highest peak, its neighbor, Peak Korjenevskoy (7105 m) standing in 12 km to the North from Peak Somoni, took the 4th place.
Three glaciers, Fortambek, Moskvina and Valter flow down from the North slope of the Peak Somoni. The Base Camp (4400 m) is installed on a grassy glade, Moskvina Meadow, between Valter and Moskvina glaciers. From here a number of routes leads to Peak Somoni, Peak Korjenevskoy and to other summits of the region. Here exists, as well, one of marvels of the nature, the Great Pamir Snow Plateau, — a flat glacier surface of 12x3 sq. km elevated up to more than 6000-meter altitude.
Before to get start to the Peak Somoni, climbers make acclimatization ascents of lesser mountains, Peaks Vorobiova (5685 m), Chetyrekh (6230 m, the name means Peak of Four) and Korjenevskoy (7105 m). From their summits picturesque views of the great mountain node are opened from various points.
Period of the program: July - August.
Expedition 2016 – schedule:
Day 1 Arrival to Dushanbe. Meeting in airport, transfer to hotel.
Day 2 Transfer to Dhirguital. Night in hotel.
Day 3 Flight to the Moskvin Meadow Base Camp (BC) - 4400 m by helicopter.
Day 4 Walking, preliminary acclimatisation round the Base Camp.
Days 5-6 Ascent of Peak Vorobiova (5685 m). Night in tents at about 4900 m. Returning to BC.
Day 7 Rest in BC.
Days 8-9 Ascent to Peak Chetyrekh (6230 m). Two nights in tents at about 510 0m and 5900 m.
Day 10 Climbing up to the top and returning down to BC.
Days 11-12 Rest in BC.
Days 13-16 Climbing Peak Korjenevskoy (7105 m). Three nights in tents at 5400 m, 6300 m and 6300 m.
Day 17 Returning to BC.
Days 18-19 Rest in BC.
Days 20-24 Climbing Peak Somoni (7495 m) via normal Borodkin's route. Four nights in tents at 5200 m, 6000 m, 6900 m, 6900 m or 6000 m.
Day 25 Returning to BC.
Days 26-27 Reserve days.
Day 28 Helicopter flight from BC to Dhirguital. Transfer to Dushanbe. Night in hotel.
Day 29 Flight to home.
Flight helicopter schedule for 2016
(please, contact us).
The price includes:
- Invitation for obtaining the Tajik visa and formalities in Tajikistan;
- Accommodation in Dushanbe hotel (hotel 2*, 2 nights in DBL room with breakfast);
- All surface transfers necessary for running the expedition; Helicopter flights from Dzhirgital to the Base Camp and back;
- Three meals in the Base Camp, Tents (for 2-4 persons) and equipment in the Base Camp;
- Base Camp mess, cook;
- electricity 220V, 50HZ;
- Medical assistance and doctor in the Base Camp;
- Sauna and shower; service of guide – consultant;
- Overhead and organizing expenses.
The price does not include:
- The cost of Tajikistan visa;
- Accommodation & transfers in Moscow;
- cost of flights Moscow - Dushanbe and back (approx. 450-500 EUR€);
- excess luggage (more than 20kg) transplantation internal air lines and more then; 30kg by helicopter;
- Rent of mountaineering equipment;
- Personal expenses;
- Porters Cost of unexpected premature evacuation.