Peak Ismail Somoni (ex-Communism, 7495 m), which sometimes is erroneously referred to Peak Garmo, towers over the joint of two mountain ranges, Peter the First Ridge (latitudinal) and Academy of Sciences Ridge (meridional), on the North-West Pamir. This was the former USSR highest peak, its neighbor, Peak Korjenevskoy (7105 m) standing in 12 km to the North from Peak Somoni, took the 4th place.
Three glaciers, Fortambek, Moskvina and Valter flow down from the North slope of the Peak Somoni. The Base Camp (4400 m) is installed on a grassy glade, Moskvina Meadow, between Valter and Moskvina glaciers. From here a number of routes leads to Peak Somoni, Peak Korjenevskoy and to other summits of the region. Here exists, as well, one of marvels of the nature, the Great Pamir Snow Plateau, — a flat glacier surface of 12x3 sq. km elevated up to more than 6000-meter altitude.
Before to get start to the Peak Somoni, climbers make acclimatization ascents of lesser mountains, Peaks Vorobiova (5685 m), Chetyrekh (6230 m, the name means Peak of Four) and Korjenevskoy (7105 m). From their summits picturesque views of the great mountain node are opened from various points.
Period of the program: July - August.
Expedition 2020 – preliminary schedule and cost:
Day 1 Arrival to Dushanbe. Meeting in airport, transfer to the helicopter station Dzhirguital. Night in the hostel.
Day 2 Flight to the Moskvin Meadow Base Camp (BC) - 4400 m by helicopter.
Days 3-4 Walking, preliminary acclimatisation round the Base Camp.
Days 5-6 Ascent of Peak Vorobiova (5685 m). Night in tents at about 4900 m. Returning to BC.
Day 7 Rest in BC.
Days 8-9 Ascent to Peak Chetyrekh (6230 m). Two nights in tents at about 5100 m and 5900 m.
Day 10 Climbing up to the top and returning down to BC.
Days 11-12 Rest in BC.
Days 13-16 Climbing Peak Korjenevskoy (710 5m). Three nights in tents at 5400 m, 6300m and 6300 m.
Day 17 Returning to BC.
Days 18-19 Rest in BC.
Days 20-24 Climbing Peak Somoni (7495 m) via normal Borodkin's route. Four nights in tents at 5200 m, 6000 m, 6900 m, 6900 m or 6000 m.
Day 25 Returning to BC.
Days 26-29 Reserve days.
Days 30-31 Helicopter flight from BC to Dzhirguital. Transfer to Dushanbe. Night in hotel.
Day 32 Flight to home.
Flight helicopter schedule for 2020 (preliminary):
Dzhirguital – CB – Dzhirguital
July 11/12, 2020.
July 25/26, 2020.
August 01/02, 2020.
August 08/09, 2020.
August 15/16, 2020
(please, contact us).
Price per each participant Dushanbe-Dushanbe
The price includes:
- Invitation for obtaining the Tajik visa and formalities in Tajikistan;
- Accommodation in Dushanbe hotel (hotel 3*, 1 nigh in DBL room with breakfast);
- All surface transfers necessary for running the expedition;
- Helicopter flights from Dzhirgital to the Base Camp and back (with 30 kg of luggage);
- Three meals in the Base Camp, Tents (for 2-4 persons) and equipment in the Base Camp;
- Base Camp mess, cook;
- electricity 220V, 50HZ;
- Medical assistance and doctor in the Base Camp;
- Sauna and shower;
- service of guide – consultant.
The price does not include:
- The cost of Tajikistan visa;
- Flight to/from Dushanbe;
- excess luggage more then 30 kg by helicopter (4,5 EUR€ by 1 kg more);
- Mountain Guide;
- Rent of mountaineering equipment;
- Personal expenses;
- Porters Cost of unexpected premature evacuation;