Lenin Peak is the third highest peak in former Soviet Union and is considered to be one of the easiest mountains over 7000 m. Because of this fact it has become one of the most popular peaks in the world and annually receives hundreds of climbers from all over the world. The area gets frigidly cold in winter, even though it's not as bad as in area of Pobeda Peak, which holds many records in the extreme climate criteria. Spring is beautiful and extremely green and even if the weather in general is quite good, sudden violent storms hit the peak. More important though, is the deep snow which make attempts very hard and the avalanche danger is generally high. Melt off from the glaciers and snow fields also make access hard. In the main climbing season the weather is usually quite stable and until you reach 5000 m it can be really hot. In the end of August storms appear with higher frequency, it fast gets colder and first autumn snowfalls hide dangerous crevasses and make ascending of the peak harder.
There are several routes for climbing the summit, but the classical route is from the north side. The classical route does not demand special experience and skills in technical climbing. Lenin Peak is one of the obligatory summits of "Snow Leopard" — the highest title in alpinism in former Soviet Union. Lenin Peak is a very beautiful and powerful peak, but the classical route does not have steep ice-rock parts. The entire route should usually overcome in sheaf using the rope for 2-3 people.
Base Camp is situated on a large meadow (Edelweiss field) at about 3600 m. The route to camp 1 takes you across the meadow to follow a steep, narrow path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200 m). After this pass, there would be a glacial moraine, which stretches along the left side of Lenin Glacier. Camp 1 is situated at the beginning of the glacier at an altitude of 4200 m. Camp 1 is also a permanent campsite with has toilet facilities, electricity and running water.
The best period for the expedition is July-August.
Expedition 2020 – schedule and cost:
Day 1 Arrival to the Manas International Aiport in Bishkek, capital of Kirghizia. After a delay in the airport – flight to the city of Osh. Or directly arrival to Osh, transfer to hotel. Night in the hotel.
Day 2 Transfer (280 km, about 8 hours) from Osh to Achik-Tash Base Camp. Arrival to the Base Camp (BC, 3600 m). Accommodation in two person tents. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Day 3 The first phase of altitude adaptation in the BC vicinity.
Day 4 The second phase of the adaptation: climb to Camp 1 (C1, 4200 m).
Day 5 Ascent to Yukhin Peak (5100 m). Night in tents in the summit.
Day 6 Return to Camp 1.
Day 7 Rest day in the Camp 1.
Day 8 To Camp 2 (5200 m).
Day 9 To Camp 3 (6100 m) and return to Camp 2.
Day 10 Climb up to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Day 11 Descent to C1 and return to BC.
Day 12 Rest day in C1.
Day 13 Beginning of the summit attempt. To Camp 1.
Day 14 To Camp 2.
Day 15 To Camp 3.
Day 16 Summit day: up to the summit (7134 m) and back to the Camp 3.
Day 17 Reserve day.
Day 18 Return to BC.
Day 19 Transfer to Osh by bus. Overnight in the hotel.
Day 20 Flight from Osh to home or flight to Bishkek & overnight in the hotel.
Day 21 Flight to home from Bishkek.
Cost of the non-guided expedition is
995 EUR€ per person
The cost includes:
- all necessary administrative fees and taxes in Kirghizia (including registration, climbing permit, environmental protection etc.);
- CET "Neva" organization expenses (including letter of invitation for the Kirghiz visa if it’s necessary);
- habitation in Osh (two nights in a double-room hotel with breakfast);
- all surface transfers necessary for normal realization of the tour according the program (in Osh, bus or truck to the Base Camp and back);
- full board habitation in BC and Camp 1 (tents for two persons and three meals a day) but the climber has to have his own tents and meal for climbing above the Camp 1 (some food for the climbing can be bought in Bishkek or Osh);
- cook in BC and Camp 1;
- all necessary equipment of the BC and Camp 1: two-person tents with plastic mats for climbers' habitation, mess tent with table and chairs, gas-stove kitchen with its kitchen equipment, electric generator (in the BC only), sauna or shower (in the BC only);
- first medical aid.
The cost does not includes:
- flights Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek (about 130 EUR€) and luggage transportation on the flights;
- airport taxes;
- accommodation in Bishkek (place in double-room, 35 EUR€ per night);
- meals in cities: Bishkek and Osh (30 EUR€ full board per person/day);
- rent of mountaineering equipment;
- cost of visas (Russian and Kyrgiz);
- drinks and personal expenses;
- unexpected premature evacuation.