The region of Central Tian-Shan is situated in a node formed by China, Kazakhstan and Kirguizia frontiers. Kirguizian-Chineese boundary follows Meridional Range and stretching in latitudinal direction Kok-Shaal-Tau Range, but also latitudinal Sary-Djas Range sets up the border between Kirguizia on the south and Kazakhstan on the north. It is between Sary-Djas and Kok-Shaal that two branches of the Inylchek glacier lie, north and south, separated by short but high Tengri-Tag Range. West of Tengri-Tag they join to born Inylchek mainstream. It is in this mountain and political node that two most northern seven-thousanders of the Earth are situated: Khan-Tengri dominates the Tengri-Tag Range.
Marble pyramid of Khan-Tengri impressively towers by about 800m over surrounding peaks of the Tengri-Tag where it stands. Seen on sunset from the north, from Kazakh prairies, it looks like a drop of blood against dark blue background of the night sky. This is why it has another local name, Kan-Tau, "Bloody Mountain". Black north Khan-Tengri face falls abruptly down to the N.Inylchek forming the North Wall, the south side is dominated by famous Marble Rib, in fact, built of marble coloured in orange.
Of course, ascent of Khan-Tengri are highly attractive for every genuine climber or adventure finder but the climber has to have adequate experience in high mountains and to be trained and equipped enough to resist against severe nature conditions.
Expeditions to the Central Tian-Shan are area of many year CET Neva activity. Accompanied by our guide(s), participants arrive to Bishkek (capital of Kirguizia) from Moscow or from another cities by plane. Then their way goes to Karakol point by bus and from there to the Inylchek glacier Base Camp.
Khan Tengri expedition—schedule
Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer and accommodation in the hotel.
Day 2 Transfer Bishkek – Karkara BC. Accommodation in double tents.
Day 3 Helicopter flight Karkara BC – South Inylchek BC (4000 m asl).
Days 4-18 Acclimatization and ascending program.
Day 19 Helicopter flight South Inylchek BC – Karkara BC. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel.
Day 20 Free day in Bishkek.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.
Helicopter flight schedule for 2020 (preliminary):
July: 5, 9, 12, 14, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 26, 28, 29, 30
August: 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 13, 17, 18, 20, 22, 26, 27
The cost includes:
- all necessary administrative fees and taxes in Kirghizia (including registration with local Rescue Party, frontier zone and climbing permits, ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC, official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter, if needed);
- meeting/seeing-off at airport in Bishkek;
- all surface transfers necessary for normal realization of the tour;
- helicopter flight to BC and back with unlimited personal load included;
- accommodation in Bishkek (with breakfast);
- accommodation in Karkara BC (maximum 4 nights) and BC "South Inylchek" (full board);
- shower and sauna in BC "South Inylchek";
- Professional mountain guide:
for group of 1-3 pax – 1 guide;
for group of 4-6 pax – 1 guide and 1 guide’s assistant;
for group of 7-10 pax – 1 guide and 2 guide’s assistants;
- installed high altitude camps: 3 person in tent;
- group mountaineering equipment (ropes, gas, gas stoves and cooking set);
- food for high altitude camps;
- consultancy of doctor and first medical aid
- long-distance radio telecommunication service;
- rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents.
The cost does not include:
- airport taxes;
- cost of visas (Russian and Kyrgiz);
- unexpected premature evacuation; cost of visa; insurance;
- rent of mountaineering equipment; porters; drinks and personal expenses.