The route on Mt.Elbrus (5642m) from the West—this is climbing by fair means, without cable-ways, without Snow cats and mobile, without hotels and shelters. We guarantee that you have never seen similar Elbrus before: powerful ice formation, rock walls, including famous rock walls of Kyukyurtlyu. And no one person except your group!
At the end of the road we found a small (people's) resort on the Djily-Suu mineral springs. There on provide warm bathes and numerous mineral water for drink. Climbing route leads mostly by glacier moraine, after a camping overnight we climb snow-ice slopes to the rock ground on 4400 m. It is a nice place—when the weather is good. From there amazingly smoothly inclined slope leads to the summit.
The two-headed ice giant crowns the panorama of the Central Caucasus. It is by at least 1000 m higher than all its neighbors. Volcano crater, filled now with ice and snow, form summit plateau of 150-200 m in diameter. All the massif is covered by a gigantic ice cap.
The Program of 12-day tour
Day 1 Arrival to Mineralnye Vody (Mineral Waters) airport. 1-hour transfer to Pyatigorsk city. Accommodation in the "Intourist" hotel. Meeting and check equipment.
Day 2 5-6 hours transfer Pyatigorsk - Cherkessk - Karachaevsk - Uchkulan - Churzuk. Setting tents in Djilisu BC (2500 m) in Ullu-Churzuk Valley. Overnight in tents.
Day 3 Acclimatization ascent to Camp 1 (3600 m) on the moraine of Bityuk - Tyube glacier. Return to BC, 4 hr up, 2 hr down.
Day 4 Ascent to Camp 1. Setting tents. Overnight there.
Day 5 Acclimatization day. Training in fix-rope. Return to C1.
Day 6 Ascent to Camp 2 (4200 m). Going 400 m on moraine and then snow-ice slope (3 ropes). Night in the Camp 2.
Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (4600 m). Up on snow-ice slope, 8 ropes, (2 ropes about 70°), then traverse to the Western plateau. Night in the Camp 3.
Day 8 Summit day. Ascent of Elbrus West (5642 m). Return to C3 (4600 m).
Day 9 Reserved day for bad weather.
Day 10 Return to Djilisu BC (2500 m). Night there.
Day 11 Return to Pyatigorsk city. Stay in the hotel.
Day 12 Transfer to the Mineralnye Vody airport. Flight home.
The best time is July-August. The program can be varied depending on the weather and route condition.!
The price includes:
- invitation for Russian visa;
- DBL accommodation in "Intourist" hotel in Pyatigorsk (2 nights with breakfast);
- all ground transportation according the program;
- mountain guide CET "NEVA" (ratio 1 mountain guide per 2 clients-OBLIGATORY);
- food in BC and during ascent;
- climbing group equipment (tents, ropes, ice crews, carbines, cooking-sets, shovel, gas and etc.;
- necessary permits and registration;
- administrative fees in Karachaevo-Cherkessia.
The price does not include:
- climbing insurance;
- cost of Russian visa;
- internal regular flights Moscow - Mineralnye Vody and back;
- luggage air transportation;
- SGL supplement in "Intourist" hotel (45€ for 1 nights);
- extra nights in Pyatigorsk (more than 2);
- lunch and dinner in Pyatigorsk city;
- rent of personal equipment;
- personal expenses;
- unexpected premature evacuation;
- personal expenses;
- extra pay due to change of the appointed departure time.
- The route from the West Side is technically more difficult than the route from the South & North Parts of the Mt. Elbrus. Expedition members must have technical preparation, it means - be able to move with crampons in the steep slopes traverse the glacier with crevasses, pass the nights in the tents in the altitude. Also the clients must have the experience in the altitude ascent & be prepared to carry serious weight.
- During the ascent personal & grope equipment will be carry by guides & expedition members.